Questions to Ask Before Getting a Rabbit

A rabbit can live 10 to 12 years. That is a long time to live with a decision made quickly. Before you bring one home — whether from a rescue, a shelter, or a breeder — it is worth pausing to ask the right questions. Not just of the people around you, but of yourself.

This article walks through the most important questions to answer before committing. Some are practical. Some are honest conversations with your household. All of them matter.

Questions to Ask Yourself

Start here. These are the questions that do not have a right or wrong answer — but they need honest ones.

• Who will be the primary caregiver? Rabbits need daily feeding, cleaning, and monitoring. Someone has to own that responsibility.
• Can you afford ongoing veterinary care? Exotic and rabbit-savvy vets are not the cheapest. Emergency visits can run hundreds of dollars. Are you prepared for that?
• Do you have other pets? Cats and dogs can coexist with rabbits, but it takes management and supervision. Be realistic about the dynamics in your home.
• Are there young children? Rabbits are not ideal pets for young children who want to pick them up and carry them. A child who can sit on the floor and let the rabbit come to them is a different story.
• Are you renting? Many landlords have size or breed restrictions. Confirm before you adopt.
• Is this a 10-year commitment? Rabbits live a decade on average. Think about what your life looks like in 2036.
• Are you prepared for the possibility of constant chewing? Rabbits explore with their mouths. Baseboards, cables, carpet edges, and books are all fair game unless you rabbit-proof thoroughly.

If you answered yes to most of these honestly, you are off to a good start.

Questions to Ask a Rabbit Breeder

Not all breeders are equal. A reputable breeder prioritizes the health and temperament of their rabbits over profit. Here is what to ask:

• Can I visit the rabbits where they live? A good breeder will welcome this. Be wary of anyone who insists on meeting elsewhere or shipping directly.
• What breeds do you specialize in, and why? They should know their breeds deeply — temperament, common health issues, grooming needs, and ideal living situations.
• Can I meet the parent rabbits? This gives you a sense of the adult size, temperament, and how the rabbits are kept.
• What health testing do you do? Some breeds carry genetic issues. Responsible breeders test for things like malocclusion, pastuertois, and E. cuniculi.
• What comes with the rabbit? Starter kit, microchip, vaccination records, sales contract, health guarantee?
• What is your spay/neuter policy? Most reputable breeders require neutering before release, or provide papers requiring it by a certain age.
• Do you take rabbits back? Good breeders will always take a rabbit back — no matter the age or reason. This is a hallmark of responsible practice.
• How long have you been breeding? Experience matters, but so does a willingness to learn. Look for someone who is honest about what they do not know.
• What do you feed the rabbits, and can you send me home with the same food? Sudden diet changes cause digestive upset in rabbits. Transition slowly.
• Can I contact you after I take the rabbit home? A breeder who disappears after the sale is a red flag. Good breeders stay involved.

Questions to Ask a Rescue or Shelter

Rescues and shelters often have rabbits with known histories — personality, medical needs, and behavior. Ask to learn what they know.

• What do you know about this rabbit's history? Previous owner surrender reasons, how long they have been in care, past medical issues.
• Has this rabbit been bonded with another rabbit? Bonded pairs can be adopted together if you have space. Separating bonded rabbits causes significant stress.
• What is the rabbit's temperament around people? Some rabbits are shy and need time. Others are bold and curious. Knowing ahead of time helps with introductions at home.
• Are there any known health issues? Rescues should be transparent about dental problems, past GI stasis episodes, mobility issues, or other conditions.
• Has the rabbit been spayed or neutered? Most reputable rescues sterilize before adoption. If not, ask about the timeline and whether it is included in the adoption fee.
• What does a typical day look like for this rabbit in foster care? This tells you about their current routine, which you will either continue or thoughtfully transition.
• Have they been around children or other pets? Some rabbits do well in busy households; others need calm, quiet environments.
• What is the adoption fee, and what does it include? Adoption fees typically range from $25 to $150 and often include vet care already received.
• What is your return policy? Reputable rescues want to stay in touch and will take a rabbit back at any time. Be wary of any rescue that does not offer this.

Questions to Ask Your Vet First

Before you bring a rabbit home, confirm you have a rabbit-savvy vet within reasonable distance. Call ahead and ask:

• Do you treat rabbits, and how frequently? General practice vets may see rabbits rarely. You want someone who sees them regularly enough to stay sharp.
• What are your emergency protocols? Do they have after-hours coverage, or do they refer to an emergency clinic?
• What is your fee structure for a first wellness visit? Get a sense of costs upfront so there are no surprises.
• Do you handle spay/neuter, and what does that process look like? This is a critical procedure for most rabbit owners. You want an experienced vet.
• Can you recommend a rabbit-savvy emergency clinic in the area? Rabbits can go downhill fast. Know where to go before you need to go.

If the vet cannot answer these questions confidently, keep looking. The House Rabbit Society maintains a list of rabbit-savvy veterinarians by state.

The Household Check

Walk through your home as if a curious two-year-old were coming to live with you — except the toddler can fit under furniture and chew through a power cable in seconds.

• Cables: Every accessible cord needs to be in a protective channel or lifted out of reach. This is non-negotiable.
• Toxic plants: Lilies, azaleas, tulips, philodendrons, and many common houseplants are toxic to rabbits. Move them out of reach or remove them.
• Small spaces: Rabbits can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps and get stuck behind furniture or appliances. Seal any gaps larger than a business card.
• Carpet and rugs: Rabbits dig and chew. They may or may not care about your specific carpet. This is something you learn in the first week.
• Other pets: Dogs and cats should never have unsupervised access to a rabbit. Introductions, if any, should be slow and controlled.
• Family awareness: Everyone in the household should understand that rabbits are not like hamsters. They do not want to be held high and carried around. They want to be on the ground, comfortable and safe.

If you are ready to answer these questions and your household passes the walkthrough, you are ready to start looking for your rabbit — whether through a rescue or a responsible breeder.