Oxbow Western Timothy Hay
The gold standard of rabbit hay. Second-cut timothy is the sweet spot for most adult rabbits — great fiber, good protein, and widely available.
Vetted picks we've used with our own rabbits
The gold standard of rabbit hay. Second-cut timothy is the sweet spot for most adult rabbits — great fiber, good protein, and widely available.
The solution for picky eaters. Sweeter and softer than timothy, and rabbits who refuse one will usually eat the other. My go-to recommendation for hay strikes.
High-fiber formula with added vitamins and probiotics. Good for daily feeding alongside unlimited hay. Pellets only — no added seeds or colored pieces.
Essential for syringe-feeding sick rabbits or orphaned kits. Keep a container in your emergency kit. Mix with water to form a recovery gruel for rabbits who have stopped eating.
Heavy ceramic dish rabbits cannot tip over. Rabbits are professionals at knocking lightweight bowls — the weight of ceramic fixes this problem permanently.
Leak-proof water bottle with dual sipper tube. Mounts on enclosure walls. Many rabbits prefer a bowl, but bottles are great when bowls get soiled.
Paper-based bedding — the safest litter type for rabbits. Low dust, highly absorbent, and digestible in small amounts. Use in litter boxes, not loose on the floor.
A properly sized rectangular litter box is essential. Rabbits need room to sit and turn. The rectangle shape gives more usable space than corner boxes.
Washable fleece liners for pen flooring or litter box use. Soft on rabbit feet, reusable, and budget-friendly over time. Have two sets so one can be in the wash.
Expandable tunnel that taps into a rabbit's natural burrowing instinct. Rabbits love to dash through tunnels and use them as hiding spots. Fold flat for easy storage.
Natural apple wood sticks satisfy a rabbit's constant need to chew. Hard woods wear teeth down safely. Replace when they get small enough to swallow.
Untreated willow balls that rabbits can toss, chew, and roll. Willow is safe, natural, and interesting enough that most rabbits give these a second look.
Rabbit-safe cardboard hideaways. Rabbits love to dig, chew, and hide in cardboard structures. Replace when they get too shredded. No glue, no ink, plain cardboard only.
The gold standard for syringe-feeding rabbits who have stopped eating. A complete recovery food that provides fiber, nutrients, and calories when a rabbit is off food. Keep this in your emergency kit.
The same simethicone used for human infants — completely safe for rabbits. Essential for gas pain and early-stage GI stasis. Give 1–2 ml every hour for up to 3 doses at first sign of distress.
A proper small animal nail clipper with a safety guard to prevent cutting too short. Rabbit nails grow constantly and need trimming every 4–6 weeks. Get them used to it early.
The recommended alternative to small store-bought cages. This 24-panel pen configures to 8×8 feet — enough room for a rabbit to do a full binky. Tall enough to prevent escape.
Spacious indoor enclosure with solid sides — better than wire cages for rabbits. Works well for one rabbit or a bonded pair. Easy to clean and configure.
The rubber-textured surface provides crucial traction for rabbits running and playing. Cut to fit your exercise pen floor. Never use bare wire flooring — it causes bumblefoot.
Mounts on pen walls to keep hay off the floor and clean. Rabbits will still pull out and scatter hay, but a feeder reduces waste. Look for rust-proof stainless steel.
Rabbits are chewers. We favor products that survive normal rabbit behavior without falling apart or creating hazards.
No small parts that can be swallowed, no toxic materials, no sharp edges. We check every product against rabbit-safe standards.
Our recommendations come from products we have used with our own rabbits or that have consistent positive reviews from experienced rabbit owners.
We care about what works, not what is expensive. Mid-range products that outlast their competitors earn our endorsement.
We only recommend products we have researched and believe in. Our recommendations are based on quality, safety, and value — not affiliate commissions. Every product we suggest has been vetted for appropriateness for rabbits and for the people who care for them.
Before purchasing any rabbit product, consider whether it meets your rabbit's specific needs. Size, material, safety, and ease of cleaning all matter. A product that works well for one rabbit may not be suitable for another. When in doubt, ask your veterinarian or an experienced rabbit rescue for recommendations.
Every product on this page has been selected because we believe it is the best option in its category for most rabbit owners — not the cheapest, not the most expensive, but the right balance of quality, safety, and value. We update this list when we find something better, and we are transparent about why each product made the cut.
We look at material safety first — anything a rabbit can chew on needs to be non-toxic and durable. Then we look at ease of cleaning, longevity, and whether the design actually works for rabbits as they live in the world. A water bottle that leaks, a hay rack that jams, a Hutch that is hard to clean — these things matter in daily life. If something on this page is out of stock or discontinued, use the contact form to let us know.
If you are setting up for your first rabbit, focus on three things: unlimited timothy hay, a spacious enclosure, and a good rabbit-savvy vet. Those matter more than any accessory. Everything else — toys, treats, grooming tools — can be added over time as you learn what your particular rabbit needs. Do not feel like you need to buy everything on this page before bringing a rabbit home.
The most common mistake new rabbit owners make is buying too much stuff too quickly. A pair of connected exercise pens or a large indoor enclosure works better than a small cage. A heavy ceramic water bowl is better than a bottle. And the hay should never run out.
The most common mistake people make when setting up for a rabbit is buying an enclosure that is too small. Pet store cages marketed for rabbits are often designed for aesthetics on a store shelf, not for the wellbeing of an animal that needs space to run and stretch. A rabbit's enclosure should be large enough for them to take three hops in any direction — that is the bare minimum. The more accurate way to think about it: your rabbit should be able to do a full binky inside their enclosure without hitting a wall.
Exercise pens designed for dogs work well for rabbits and are often the most affordable option for providing adequate space. Two or three connected panels give a rabbit room to move, and you can configure them in different shapes to fit your space. Avoid multi-level cages with ramps unless your rabbit is already trained and mobile — rabbits with mobility issues can fall, and young rabbits sometimes get legs caught in ramp structures.
When it comes to your rabbit's hay, the specific brand matters far less than the quality of the product. Timothy hay should be green, smell fresh, and be free of dust and mold. If it smells musty or looks yellowed, it is too old — and rabbits will refuse to eat it. Buy in quantities small enough that you use it before it degrades, even if that means spending more per pound for a smaller bag.
Some rabbits are picky about hay. If your rabbit is ignoring their hay, try a different cut — second cut is generally softer than first cut, though some rabbits prefer the coarser first cut. Orchard grass hay is a good alternative for rabbits who refuse timothy, and it can be mixed with timothy to encourage eating. The goal is for your rabbit to have unlimited access to hay at all times, since that is the foundation of their digestive health.