Grooming Long-Haired Rabbits

Breeds with Long Fur

Not all long-haired rabbits are the same. The grooming intensity depends on the breed and coat type:

• Angora — Very high maintenance. Fur grows continuously and mats easily. Requires daily brushing.
• French Angora — Slightly easier than English Angoras, but still needs daily grooming.
• Lionhead — Mane fur around the head and flanks. The mane area mats easily; body fur is easier to manage.
• Jersey Wooly — Smaller breed with a softer, denser coat. Moderate maintenance.
• Fuzzy Lop — Drop ears and wooly coat. Daily grooming required.
• American Fuzzy Lop — Similar to Fuzzy Lop, wooly coat needs daily attention.

Essential Grooming Tools

• Slicker brush — The most important tool. Removes loose fur and works through mats before they get severe.
• Metal comb — For working through the undercoat and separating fur layers.
• Mat splitter or mat rake — For safely cutting apart mats that have already formed.
• Small scissors — For trimming fur around the bottom and sanitary areas.
• Corn starch or grooming powder — Helps separate mats and reduces friction when brushing.
• Dematting comb — For stubborn mats close to the skin.

The Daily Grooming Routine

Step 1: Line brush the full coat

Using a slicker brush, work from the skin outward in small sections. Brush in the direction of fur growth. Do not press hard — let the brush do the work. Lift the top fur to reach the undercoat.

Step 2: Check problem areas

Long-haired rabbits mat most often behind the ears, on the flanks, and around the rear. Run your hands through these areas and work a comb through any tangles you find.

Step 3: Check the bottom

Fur around the rabbit's rear can become matted with droppings. This is not just unsightly — it attracts flies and can lead to fly strike. Clean the area with scissors or a sanitized clipper as needed.

Step 4: Check for parasites and skin issues

While grooming, look for signs of:
- Fur loss or thinning
- Redness or scabs
- Flaky skin
- Signs of mites (white powdery residue, scratching)
- Sore hocks (red or calloused pads on the feet)

Step 5: Smooth and finish

Run a metal comb through the full coat to smooth and check for remaining tangles.

When Mats Get Bad

If mats are already severe, do not try to brush them out. Work a mat splitter or mat rake carefully under the mat, then cut the mat into smaller sections before working them out with a slicker brush. Never pull mats out — you will tear the skin.

For severe mats that cannot be safely removed, a full body shave may be necessary. A rabbit-savvy groomer or vet can do this safely, and the fur will grow back — it can take several months, but it does grow back.

Diet and Fur Health

A rabbit's fur quality reflects their overall health and diet. To support a healthy coat:

• Unlimited timothy hay — Fiber is essential for gut health, which affects coat condition
• Balanced pellets — Provides vitamins and minerals that support coat health
• Fresh vegetables — Leafy greens contribute to overall nutrition
• Fresh water — Always available
• Avoid supplements unless prescribed — Too much oil or omega supplements can cause digestive issues

Shaving and Seasonal Grooming

Many long-haired rabbits benefit from a full-body shave in the summer months to prevent overheating. Fur that is longer than 2 inches does not significantly improve insulation — it just traps heat. Shaving does not damage the coat; it grows back.

If you shave your rabbit yourself:

• Use clippers designed for animal grooming
• Leave at least 1 inch of fur to protect the skin from sunburn
• Avoid the face and legs — use scissors for these areas
• If you are not experienced, hire a professional rabbit groomer

Signs You Need a Vet Visit

• Mats that have been pulled at the skin and are causing open sores
• Skin that is red, weeping, or has a bad smell
• Extreme fur loss beyond normal shedding
• Signs of fly strike — especially around the rear in warm months
• Difficulty eating or drinking because mats are obstructing the mouth area